Fitting and Pattern Alteration: Bundle Book + Studio Access Card Taunton Fashion and beauty have helped shape history and today more than ever, we nd ourselves under increasing pressure to think about what we wear, what we look good in and how best to enhance our body shape and size. Blend into the original seamline at the arm hinge areas. If the arm fullness is at the back area only, remove the sleeves and release the underarm seams. The armscyes align properly with the body contours. 74 short arm joints (sleeves) BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis The bones forming the joint structure may be shorter than average or the hinge flesh separating the arm from the rib cage may form closer to the joint than is average. Keep the tuck parallel across the center front of the garment. Behind this seemingly The shorter midriff area of the garment fits smoothly against the body. Fitting Analysis The fabric is taut between the shoulder seams and the waistline and may form tight vertical wrinkles. Let out the dart width as needed. Be the first one to, Fitting & pattern alteration : a multi-method approach, Advanced embedding details, examples, and help, urn:lcp:fittingpatternal0000liec:lcpdf:1a29a10d-5c5a-4646-91b3-ae532a423bb9, urn:lcp:fittingpatternal0000liec:epub:837bf85b-6395-48e2-bda6-dcbc78b7f728, Terms of Service (last updated 12/31/2014). Check the wristline position when both arms are relaxed. Slash Methodfitting garment only Before attaching the sleeves adjust the cap to correspond to the change made in the garment. Slumped posture both emphasizes and contributes to a lowered bust contour. There is no relationship between the development of muscle and frame size and that of the bust. Draw a line parallel to the original seamline below the original armscye seamline to indicate the correct amount of adjustment. Performing this action will revert the following features to their default settings: Hooray! Square Shoulders 230 42. Extend each end of the back and front waistlines equally into the side seam allowances to restore the waistline measurements. 63 wide bust point span BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis The breast contours develop further from the sternum than average. Blend into the original at the elbow line. If the arm fullness is at the front area only, reverse this procedure. This procedure may change the cap height. Hyperextended Calves 196 31. Insert fabric strips. To restore the wristline circumference, fold one lower sleeve area along the seam. i '/y///////////////, ? Instep Circumference + 1" (2.5 cm) X X X X 1G. These factors decrease the body depth from the front arm hinge to that at the back. The tightness makes the armscyes appear to be too tight and the bust area of the garment appear too small. Mark the ends of the new waist seamline at the side seam areas to restore the waistline measurements. GARMENT & PATTERN ALTERATIONS FOR SYMMETRICAL FIGURES Change Required Widen the upper sleeve cap area. T&ke in the side seam areas equally at the bustline to remove the excess fabric. Because of the interrelationship of the elements and principles of design, traditionally hard and fast rules may not remain valid in all cases. The larger bone structure and tissue deposits increase the circumference of the wrist. A more cylindrical rib cage may accompany this figure variation. 300 301 69 short midriff Pivot Method Release the entire waistline and side seams. See 58 Oval-shaped Tbrso (rib cage) and 79 Thin Arms. Insert a fabric strip. See Pivot Method. Release the side seams across the underarm darts; release the underarm darts. Slash Methodfitting garment only Mark the back quarter of the sleeve at the wristline. T&per to nothing at the armscyes. station13.cebu Specific alteration procedures are given for multiple variations occuring on the same figure, since most figures varying from standard require more than one alteration. Cut across the underarm area between the vertical slashes. 84 large wrists BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis The bone and ligament structures forming the wrist joints are heavier than average. Remark and stitch the new underarm seamlines. Retain sufficient ease over the bust. 64 prominent bust BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis The person assumes an erect stance with an upward, forward thrust to the rib cage. Mark across the underarm seam area above the original armscye seamline to indicate the correct amount of adjustment. The increased length relieves the strain at the top of the sleeve and underarm. Use full scale measurements. The bust fitting line remains level. Blend smoothly into the original seamline above and below the bust area. Draw each new shoulder seamline in a straight line across the stitched darts. Fabric Requirements for Proper Fit The increased chest or blade span requires more fabric width at the corresponding scyeline and armscyes. GARMENT & PATTERN ALTERATIONS FOR SYMMETRICAL FIGURES Change Required Narrow the side area at the waistline. If the sleeves are attached and the armscye size is correct, adjust only the sleeves. Tight horizontal wrinkles form across the armscye seams. 14 day loan required to access EPUB and PDF files. Restore the length of the side seamline by measuring equal distances into the armscye and waistline seam allowances. See 75 Large Shoulder Joints and 80 Large Upper Arms for the sleeve adjustment. Fitting Analysis The fabric of the sleeves hangs in loose vertical folds from the capline to the wristline. Tkper to nothing at each armscye. Stitch each new seamline in a straight line from the elbow level to the end of the new wristline. The garment silhouette may or may not define the body silhouette. Increase each side of the sleeve cap until the sleeve lies smooth across the upper cap and the ease has been restored. Move the dart tip toward the front equal to one-half this amount.
FITTING AND PATTERN ALTERATION - Fairchild Books Stitch the side seams and the waist seam. The arms can be raised easily and comfortably. Buttoned, front closures gap at bust level. Long Legs 180 23. 2. Insert fabric strips.
Continue cutting to the armscye seamlines. Deposits of soft body tissue are minimal. Where the sleeve slash meets the back and front armscye, cut downward into the garment. Thper to nothing at the armscye. 54 narrow chest/upper back BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis The upper part of the rib cage is smaller than average. 312 ' 73 long arm joints (sleeves) BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis The bones forming the joint structure may be longer than average or the hinge flesh separating the arm from the rib cage may form farther than average below the joint. Let out the front seam allowances equally at the bustline as needed to relax the fabric and restore the ease over the bust. If the elbow position is above the center of the darted area, remove the excess length with a parallel tuck around the upper sleeve area. Let out front and back seam allowances evenly along the forearm enough to restore the ease and permit the sleeve to slide freely over the arm. Chest Length & Bust Contour 20. To adjust the armscye depth on the garment, see 59 Long Upper Rib Cage. Excess soft tissues may concentrate at the elbow area. To restore the waistline size, release the front waistline and the waistline dart. This attracts undue attention to the smallness of the contour. In Create the Perfect Fit, Joi Mahon debunks traditional fitting rules and shares her, You can use this book to design a house for yourself with your family; you can use it to work with your neighbors to imp, Learn how to customize your clothes--designing new pattern shapes, style lines, and fashion details with Sara Alm's, Introduction to Pattern Recognition: A Matlab Approachis an accompanying manual to Theodoridis/Koutroumbas' Pattern, In this book, the author tests a regenerative-adaptive pattern language theory towards investigating the possibilities o, Atlas of Cytopathology: A Pattern Based Approach is the latest installment in a unique new series designed to present di, This book includes the work of experts from a wide range of backgrounds who share the desire to understand how the human, Fitting Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach Elizabeth G. Liechty Della N. Pottberg Judith A. Rasband Fitting & Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach Elizabeth G. Liechty Assistant Professor Clothing and Textiles Brigham Young University Della N. Pottberg Assistant Professor Clothing and Textiles Brigham Young University Judith A. Rasband Home Economist in Business Provo, Utah Fairchild Publications New York ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The measurement procedure for comparing the body to the pattern and the pattern alterations with their illustrations are credited to Elizabeth G. Liechty. Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration txt
Follow the crosswise grain. Prominent Upper Hip Curve 146 11. These factors decrease the circumference of the arm at any point along the entire arm. Full Bodice Length + M" (0.G cm) 15. To correct the length, release the underarm darts. 68 long midriff BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis The lower ribs and vertabrae may be heavier than average. Can you add one ? Slash Methodfitting garment only Only the dart stitching line positions are affected. If the wristbone mark lies above or below the hemline, take up or let out the hem to align the finished hemline with the wristbone mark. This is accomplished by cutting each end along one yarn, then pulling the fabric on the true bias in the direction of the shortest corners. Slash from the wrist to the tips of the elbow dart. Narrow each waistline dart at the side dartlines to let out the width taken up at the side seam. Measure from the fold toward the seam on both sleeves. Slash Methodfitting garment only If the armscye drops too far below the arm hinge, make a parallel tuck across the garment at the chest and the blade lines. When the variation is extreme or a looser fitting sleeve is desired, see 82 Large Forearms. They act as guides' for the selection and use of the elements of design. TLue the cap seamline. Fitting Analysis The sleeve cap is too wide at the sides. Small Waist 132 5. Large Thighs at Sides 190 28. See Pivot Method. Our intent is to overcome the problems that contribute to these feelings. Blend the new neckline into the original near the shoulder areas. Release the top of the cap. Insert fabric strips. An intermediate degree of a specific design element can create a more flattering effect. Fabric Requirements for Proper Fit The larger girth of the wrist requires more fabric width at the wristline. 298 299 68 long midriff Pivot Method Release the entire waistline and side seams. The upper torso area tapers less than average. 72 arm length variations 310 72 arm length variations Basic patterns altered to fit arm length variations. Fitting Analysis The fabric sags into a loose horizontal fold at the bustline or near the waistline. Thke up both the front and back shoulder seam areas evenly until the lower armscye seamline rises to a comfortable position. Fabric Requirements for Proper Fit The wider space between the bust points requires that the waist dart tips end farther from the center front. Release the underarm seam and the darts. Each alteration procedure is accompanied by identification of the figure variation for the hips, legs, upper-torso, mid-torso or arms causing the fitting problem. and director of the Conselle Institute of ImageManagement. Adjust the widths equally until the garment area is smooth; retain sufficient ease at the blade line. 294 66 small bust Fashion patterns altered to fit small bust. Fabric Requirements for Proper Fit The shape of the shoulder joint requires a corresponding change in the shape of the sleeve cap. The bust fitting line may droop at the center. Fpllow Pivot Method. The wider garment area relaxes. Dowager Hump 218 Shoulders 221 39. Prominent Hip Bones 134 6. This permits the garment area to lie smoothly against the chest and the upper back. If more cap height is needed to restore the sleeve armscye size, raise the cap seamline across the shoulder area. Relax both arms. The adjusted positions of the dart tips permit the fabric shaping to align properly with the bust contour. 82 large forearms BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis The heavier bone, muscle development, and concentration of soft tissues are larger than average at the forearm area. Cut across the underarm area between the vertical slashes. Widen each waistline dart at the side dartline to absorb the width adjustment at the side seam. Draw from the original side seam markings at the armscye and waistline. GARMENT & PATTERN ALTERATIONS FOR SYMMETRICAL FIGURES Change Required Widen the entire sleeve. Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration csv
To increase width, separate the cut edges equally at the chest or blade line until the armscye lines move to comfortable and attractive positions. Align the fold with the adjusted armscye line. See 66 Small Bust. reading Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration
To adjust the armscye depth on the garment, see 60 Short Upper Rib Cage.
FittingAndPatternAlteration (PDF) - wp.designveloper Use the procedure indicated for Pivot Method. Prominent Sternum/Rounded Chest 250 48. Fitting Analysis The fabric pulls into taut horizontal wrinkles near the waist. Let out the underarm seam allowance equally at the scyeline to increase the circumference enough to restore the ease and comfort and to permit the arm to move freely. GARMENT & PATTERN ALTERATIONS FOR SYMMETRICAL FIGURES Change Required Narrow and shorten the area over the blades. Widen the underarm darts equally until the fabric lies smooth but relaxed at the edge of the bust area. Properly fitted bras with adequate support minimize the variation and help to prevent further flaccidness of the supporting tissues. Prominent Bust 284 65. Use the procedure indicated for Pivot Method. Slash Methodfitting garment only If the garment armscye was increased at the underarm or the shoulder, adjust the upper sleeve width to correspond to this alteration before attaching sleeves to the garment. (B.O.O.K.$) Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration Full PDF. By slashing and spreading or overlapping along pattern lines to increase or decrease dimensions. Slash Methodfitting garment only Slash from the back quarter position at the wristline up to the capline. At bust level, let out the side panel enough to relax the fabric and restore the ease. If carried to extreme, however, the effectiveness may be lost. True the distorted seamline contour in the lower armscye area and across the waist dart areas. The horizontal, cap fitting line curves upward at the center. Restore the armscye size with a dart in each lower armscye area. Prominent Shoulder Blades 258 52. The chest and blade fitting lines remain level. SECOND TISSUE-FITTING Shoulder height - Check for square or sloping shoulders, page 195, since these can affect . The widths of the existing darts may be increased or an additional dart may be formed. Fabric Requirements for Proper Fit The shorter rib cage area requires less fabric length between the shoulder seams and the bustline. Aligning the center of the darted area with the elbow permits comfortable elbow movement. The choice of how the elements of design will be used is left to the individual. Shorten both the back and front waistline darts equal to the side dart adjustment. Both the upper and lower sleeves areas may appear to be too short. best seller Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach to the Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and Alteration
To increase width, spread the cut edges equally at the scyeline to relieve the tension and restore the ease. Blend into the original at shoulder and arm hinge. The strain causes the wristline to rise; the sleeve appears to be too short and the wrist opening too small. Blend the new seamline into the original at the elbow area. Draw each new side seamline in a straight line parallel to the original from the waistline to the armscye seam allowances. See 58 Oval-shaped Tbrso (rib cage) and 76 Small Shoulder Joints. Shorten the new back seamline at the wrist to restore the length. Time the distorted side seamline in a straight line across the closed dart. The multi-m, Nancy Zieman's pattern fitting approach is easy - no cutting, slashing, tucking or pinching--just logical and easy, Create the best fit for your body! Insert strips of fabric. Small Wrists 338 PART THREE Measurement Chart 341 Adjustment Record 342 part one theory CHAPTER 1 People seldom look for evidence of a figure fault or variation. To increase width, spread each set of cut edges equally at the scyeline to relax the fabric and restore the ease. obtaining fit in a pattern: (1) comparison of body measure ments with pattern measurements, (2) fitting of the tissue pattern to the individual, and (3) the use of a substitute form, either a muslin shell or a "dress form." The fact that fitting is most difficult is given as the reason that many dresses look homemade, according to Margolis
Pattern Alteration: Techniques, Principles and Importance - Textile Learner Decorative lines in fabric can occur as stripes, plaids, and repeating motifs The lines are created during fabric construction or added during printing and finishing processes. True side seams in straight lines across the adjustments. Mark the new armscye stitching lines in the seam allowance areas at the edges of the chest (blade) so that they lie in comfortable and attractive positions. Thper to nothing at the elbow. A longer, lower arm area requires more fabric length below the elbowthe shorter, lower arm area requires less fabric length. Blend into the original seamline at the shoulder mark and notches. Attach the sleeves to the garment using the new markings. For example, shortening arms or lengthening a top. The pattern pieces are in quarter scale. 338 85 small wrists Pivot Method Release the underarm seam from the wrist to the elbow line. Release the side seams. Put on the garment and let out both darts until the darts and the fabric relax. 71 small waist BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis The body indents more than average at the waist either because the muscles are more taut, the posture is overly erect, or the deposits of soft tissues are smaller than average. Stitch the side seams. Stitch the new darts. At the scyeline, take in the garment areas equally until the excess fabric is removed; retain sufficient ease. Stitch the darts. Each figure and pattern is realistically illustrated; each illustration was first drawn to scale and then photographically reduced in size. Slash Methodfitting garment only This method is not appropriate because only the dartline contours can be adjusted. If only the back is too long but the dart shaping is too small, release the side seams and the side darts. Fabric Requirements for Proper Fit The less-curved contour of the shoulder blades requires less fabric width and length and dart shaping. For each waistline dart, form a new center fold from the new tip mark to the place where the original center fold meets the waistline. All rights reserved. Separate the cut edges evenly over a fabric insert until the length is correct. Combined Even &> Uneven Width Changes 114 Checking the Finished Patterns for Accuracy 116 Preserving a Personalized Pattern 116 Using a Basic Pattern or Sloper to Compare Fit 6= Determine Alterations 120 Using a Basic Pattern or Sloper to Design New Patterns 122 PART TWO ILLUSTRATED ALTERATION GUIDE Hip Area 125 1. 80 large upper arms BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis Heavier muscle development, bone, and excess soft tissue affects only the upper arm area. Stitch the darts. Either factor decreases the length from the shoulder to the scyeline. If the sleeves are attached and the armscye size is correct, adjust only the sleeve. Fitting and Pattern Alteration: A Multi-Method Approach tothe Art of Style Selection, Fitting, and AlterationFORMAT FILE[ebook, pdf, epub, mobi pocket, audiobook, txt, doc, ppt, jpeg, chm, xml, azw, pdb, kf8, prc, tpz]LINK DOWNLOAD / READ ONLINE, CLICK NEXT PAGE. T&per to nothing at the neckline and armscyes. On a princess-style garment, release the seams across the bust area. Flat Abdomen 138 8. If only the cap requires length, see Pivot Method. Overarm length + !4" (1.3 cm) X X 28. Release the underarm seams from the capline to the elbow position. 70 large waist BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis The body indents very little at the waist either because the muscles lack tone, the posture is slumped or the deposits of soft tissues are larger than average in that area. The armscye may cut against the arm hinge.
Fitting & pattern alteration : a multi-method approach 62 low or pendulous bust position BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis When associated with the mature figure, the fullness of the breast tissues rests below the area of origin because the connective tissues have lost tone. Mark the new waistline parallel to the original. Blend into the original seamline at the balance marks. Make the tuck parallel to the wristline. GARMENT & PATTERN ALTERATIONS FOR SYMMETRICAL FIGURES Change Required Widen and lengthen the area oyer the blades. Itiper to nothing at the capline. Release the waist darts. Large Buttocks 166 19. T&per the tuck to nothing at the elbow tip. Slash Methodfitting garment only Near each side seam, form a vertical tuck at the scyeline on both front and back. The size is determined by the arm joint structure and rib cage depth, not the development of the breast tissues. Let out the darts equally until the garment is smooth but relaxed over the shoulder blades. Fitting Analysis The fabric near the lower armscye areas hangs in vertical folds near the armscyes on the front and back The excess garment width inhibits arm movement; the front armscye cuts against the arm hinge. High Bust Position 278 62. Correct the waistline as stated above. As a result, the bodice may appear to be too long. Make a parallel tuck completely across the back area at the bustline to remove the excess fabric length. Mark the ends of the seamlines at the armscyes. Blend into the original near the top of the cap and near the ends of the armscye extensions. 55 wide rib cage BASIC FITTING THEORY Figure Analysis The midsection of the rib cage is fuller than average and increases the body circumference at the scye line. Raise the neckline seam at center front and center back equal to the length adjustment at the shoulders. Slash Methodfitting garment only Near the side seams, slash through the waistline on the back and front of the garment. Restore the depth of the back and front necklines. Blend into the original near each shoulder. The very lightness of thin, clingy fabrics may emphasize the contrasting heaviness of a full figure while at the same time revealing the body contours. Shorten only the back. Long Arm Joints (sleeves) 314 74. Fitting Analysis The fabric is taut across the fullest area of the bust because the fabric shaping is too low. Extend the new back seamline into the wrist seam allowance area as necessary to restore the length of the seamline. Release the side seams across the side dart area. It presents innovative and tested methods of garment fitting and pattern alteration. Use the following illustrations for recording changes in your personal fitting garment and pattern. GARMENT & PATTERN ALTERATIONS FOR SYMMETRICAL FIGURES Change Required Narrow the upper sleeve cap area. Tight horizontal wrinkles form across the armscye seamlines and the sleeves. T&ke up enough of the sleeve at each underarm seam to remove the excess looseness. 288 65 large bust To restore the waistline size, release the waistline from each dart to the side seam. Stitch across the lapped fabric. Alteration directions are given for the asymmetrical figure. Buttoned front closures gap at bust level. At the back, spread the cut edges an amount equal to the adjustment at the front wristline. As you apply the techniques set forth in this book, we are confident you will develop self-reliance and the satisfac tion of knowing that you too can consistently achieve a fault-free, custom fit. Small individuals, on the other hand, may choose to emphasize their petite figure through delicate fabrics in small-scale pastel prints. Insert fabric strips. Cylindrical-shaped Torso (hip area) 158 15. Mark the new shoulder and balance points on the sleeves. 1 Rating 21 Want to read 1 Currently reading 1 Have read This edition doesn't have a description yet. To restore the waistline size, release the front waistline and the waistline darts. Center to Blade &> Bust Tip 23. This book is the answer for professionals and students who want beautifully fitted and comfortable clothing. The tightness emphasizes the largeness of the arms. Reshape the side panel so that the greatest curvature is at the bustline. For other figures, the position of the bust contour is higher than average. Part Two is organized for use as a ready reference. Broad Chest/Upper Back 262 54. The lower edges of an unfastened, front closure overlap. Separate the cut edges at the elbow level enough to restore the ease and to permit the sleeve to slide freely over the elbow. Fabric Requirements for Proper Fit The fullness of the shoulder blades requires more fabric width and length and increases shaping. Pivot Method If the garment armscye was increased at the underarm or the shoulder, adjust the sleeve width evenly to correspond to this alteration before attaching sleeves to the garment. The sides of the body are more sloped and measure slightly longer than average from the base of the arm joints to the waist. The added width relieves the strain on both the garment and the sleeve; each aligns properly with the body structure. If the elbow position is below the center of the darted area, slash and spread the upper sleeve area evenly over a fabric insert to gain the necessary length. Fitting Analysis The sleeve is taut from the capline to the elbow line. The area over the diaphragm may be recessed. Stitch the darts. Pivot Method Adjust for width first. Fabric Requirements for Proper Fit The longer rib cage areas require more fabric length between the shoulder seams and the bustline. If the sleeves have been set in, release the front (back) areas from the shoulders to the underarm areas and proceed as stated above. Pivot Method If the garment armscye was increased at the underarm or the shoulder, adjust the sleeve width evenly to correspond before attaching it to the garment. Our approach encourages use of the simplest methods for a particular alteration, thus increasing efficiency. If the sleeves are attached and the armscye size is correct, adjust only the sleeves. If less cap height is needed, lower the cap seamline across the shoulder area.
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